Thursday, 3 October 2024
by BD Banks
Since Saudi Arabia snapped up Newcastle United in 2021, the North East of England — once known chiefly for its coal mines, cold winters and thick Geordie accents — has become the apple of the Middle Eastern eye.
A little over three hours by train from London, Newcastle straddles the River Tyne with medieval bridges, old pubs and looming Gothic spires. But don’t let the tough exterior fool you—inside, it’s a hive of culture, music, and refined dining.
You’ll find world-class art at the Baltic, Roman history at the remnants of Hadrian’s Wall, plus a relentless nightlife that famously doesn’t care much for coats, no matter how low the temperature drops. Yet just beyond the city’s buzz lies a peaceful, yet grand, escape amid the serene beauty of the lush, rolling Northumberland countryside.
Just 30 minutes from the heart of the city, the grand Victorian-era manor of Matfen Hall offers a quintessentially British country estate experience that’s the perfect retreat after a day of cheering on the action at nearby St. James’ Park — the home of Saudi-owned Newcastle United. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it’s emerged as a fast favourite among visitors from the Middle East looking to experience a heady dose of UK’s history and culture in style.
After winding up the dramatic driveway and watching the mansion gradually reveal itself, step into the majestic Great Hall, where soft beams of light filter through stained-glass windows — then retreat to your plush bedroom for sweeping views of the sprawling grounds that unfold like a scene from a landscape painting.
Yet it’s not just the opulent surroundings that make Matfen Hall special. Beyond its luxurious rooms, the estate boasts three outstanding restaurants, an indulgent spa with a glass-roofed swimming pool, three golf courses, and a wealth of activities to keep every member of the family entertained.
Middle East Traveller checked in to a Classic Room at Matfen Hall for glimpses of the Scottish skyline from one of the newest hotels on the block.
Matfen Hall’s roots stretch back to 1836, when Sir Edward Blackett, an ambitious figure from one of Northumberland’s most distinguished families, took charge of building the estate after firing his architect.
The Blacketts were well-established aristocrats, holding vast estates and playing influential roles in British politics and society. Now, with its original carved doorway, the Blackett coat of arms proudly displayed, and a grand entrance exuding Gothic grandeur, the hall still stands as a lasting monument to that power and prestige.
The Blacketts had a penchant for collecting the extraordinary — everything from great masterpieces by Caravaggio and Van Dyck to a risqué fireplace rejected by Buckingham Palace for its scandalous naked carvings. This flair for the dramatic and the rare ran through generations of Blacketts, lending Matfen Hall an air of eccentricity that still captivates visitors.
Fast forward to 1999 and Matfen Hall was reimagined as a luxury country house hotel, breathing new life into its walls. Extensive refurbishments have since elevated the experience, combining old-world elegance with modern comforts — from chic interiors to state-of-the-art amenities.
We’re whisked away from Newcastle station by Matfen Hall’s sharp-suited chauffeur, and in no time, the city buzz fades into the rolling green hills of Northumberland. As we wind up the driveway, the grand estate slowly emerges — a majestic manor with centuries of history etched into its elegant façade and mullioned windows.
Porters swoop in for your bags, letting you stride straight into the Great Hall. Stained glass windows scatter splashes of colour across the stone floors, while rich tapestries hanging from the walls and a staircase lead your gaze to the intricately painted ceiling above. Antique furniture, polished to a gleam, stands proudly throughout the room, while imposing stag heads watch over you from the walls, adding to the manor’s old-world grandeur.
It’s like stepping back in time, with grand leather armchairs and wooden chests anchoring the sense of history — but don’t worry, modern comforts are everywhere. This is your cue to relax, unwind, and soak in the luxurious charm of this storied estate.
Matfen Hall’s 63 rooms, spread across the historic main building and a newer wing off the Great Hall, feel more like a private estate stay than a hotel. The Classic Rooms offer cosy charm, with idyllic views of the gardens or village, and feature super king-sized Hypnos Lansdowne Cashmere beds draped in Egyptian cotton. Sink your feet into soft carpets, and unwind in Italian marble bathrooms stocked with Penhaligon’s toiletries — a favourite of the British Royal Family.
For the ultimate Matfen experience, book one of the grand suites above the Great Hall. These rooms ooze sophistication, with muted color schemes, towering corniced ceilings and modern luxuries like Dyson bladeless fans and Bluetooth speakers. The standout is the bridal suite, decked out in striking eggshell blue, with a statement antique armoire, custom tufted headboard and spacious seating and dining area that looks out over the sprawling grounds.
As a suite guest, you’ll enjoy added perks like chauffeur pickup within 20 miles of the hotel, a chilled bottle of champagne (or non-alcoholic alternative) on arrival, plus a seasonal floral arrangement to make your stay even more special.
There’s no shortage of activities at Matfen Hall, whether you’re looking to perfect your swing on one of the hotel’s three sprawling nine-hole golf courses, unwind at The Retreat spa or explore nearby historical sites tracing their roots back to Roman times. The hotel will soon unveil its new clubhouse, featuring an airy restaurant, cutting-edge sports simulator and teaching studio where passionate golfers can have custom clubs tailored to their playing style.
The spa, set beneath a glass ceiling, is home to a 15-metre indoor swimming pool, a thermal suite with a jacuzzi, sauna and steam room, plus treatment rooms where expert therapists provide bespoke massages using detoxifying oils from Germaine de Capuccini and Natura Bissé.
Just 10 minutes from the hotel, Chesters Roman Fort offers the chance to explore the ruins of well-preserved officers’ quarters, ancient baths and a steam room — all set against the scenic backdrop of rolling countryside and the meandering River Tyne. During our visit, we caught a lively group of kids reenacting Roman shield formations on the lawns led by an actor decked out in authentic Roman regalia.
Nearby, history buffs can explore Prudhoe Castle, a 12th-century fortress that withstood multiple sieges, a 14th-century prison with eerie underground dungeons, and Hexham Abbey, one of the country’s earliest Christian sites. Just two miles from the hotel, you’ll find remnants of Hadrian’s Wall that once divided Scotland and England.
For a taste of modern life and some retail therapy, Newcastle’s city centre is just a short drive away, boasting Fenwick, a five-floor department store that’s the Northern answer to London’s Harrods. Or take a leisurely stroll to Matfen village, a few minutes’ walk from the hotel, to discover traditional tearooms and charming local shops.
Matfen Hall’s cosy, wood-panelled Emerald Restaurant is a must-visit. Botanical wallpapers and shelves stacked with leather-bound books line the dining space, all beneath a striking moulded ceiling with gilded edges that gleam in the evening light.
Sink into a deep-green velvet chair and tuck into the eight-course tasting menu (or go for the five-course if you’re not that hungry). Expect bold, contemporary pairings like scallop with elderflower and the chef’s famous banana bread with caviar. For vegetarians, the menu isn’t just a meatless copy but an adventure through a series of equally exciting plates.
After dinner, head to the intimate 1832 bar next door, where Gothic-inspired arches set the scene for a top-notch selection of champagnes, cigars, cocktails and Scotch served well into the early hours. By day, the space transforms for the hotel’s exceptional afternoon tea, a celebration of the great British tradition of finger sandwiches, delicate pastries and freshly baked scones with dense dollops of clotted cream. Halal, vegan, and vegetarian options are available, with dietary requirements deftly handled by the attentive staff.
Across the Great Hall, beneath a magnificent stained glass window, Cloisters offers a breezy, all-day dining experience with hearty steaks and shareable starters like crispy potato terrine and parmesan polenta chips. The space, once outdoors but now wrapped in glass, cascades from the lobby and leads to a private wine tasting cellar, where you can sip on selections from Laurent Perrier, the famed French Champagne house.
Matfen Hall oozes history and delivers the quintessential English estate experience within easy reach of London. With first-class dining, endless activities and warm, welcoming staff well-versed in Middle East hospitality, it’s the perfect weekend escape to cap off a UK trip.
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